Any Italian wine lover knows that Sangiovese is the varietal that is the source for such famous offerings as Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico, while the same is true for Nebbiolo and such wines as Barolo and Barbaresco.
But with more than 300 varietals currently grown on a regular basis on the Italian peninsula - and as many as 2000 planted throughout the country’s wine regions - there are countless examples that are not used as the basis for some of the most illustrious wines of Italy. So let’s give a few of these under appreciated and often unknown varietals and wines their just due.
Whites
Coda di Volpe - Grown in Irpinia, an inland territory of the Campania region, Coda di Volpe - literally “tail of the fox,” named for the shape of the clusters, is sometimes used as a blending grape, but on its own, it is an excellent white. Not many producers make a varietal Coda di Volpe, as Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino are the most famous Irpinian whites, but at its best, Coda di Volpe is medium-full and dry white, typically unoaked, that has melon, apple and pear flavors along with notes of white flowers. There is very good acidity in most years, and the wines offer notable complexity and a delicate touch of minerality and spice in the finish. This is a lovely wine to pair with shellfish and most seafood, or with pasta with seafood or vegetables. Leading producers: Terredora di Paolo, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Traerte (aka Vadiaperti)
Erbaluce - While white varietals in Piemonte such as Arneis and Timorasso receive the majority of attention, Erbaluce is typically overlooked. The most famous version of this varietal is Erbaluce di Caluso, produced in a small zone not far from Turin. One of the features about the Erbaluce grape is its naturally high acidity, so along with dry whites, there are also noteworthy examples of sparkling wines, while a few producers also craft a passito (dessert wine) version from this varietal. A dry Erbaluce made as a table wine is generally medium to medium-full on the palate, and offers a wonderful mix of perfumes, ranging from golden apples and quince to tropical fruit and cantaloupe. Again, because of its natural acidity, Erbaluce can age very well, from five to seven years in a good vintage to ten to twelve (or more) years from the finest growing seasons. Leading producers: Cieck, Favaro, Ferrando, Orsolani, Tappero Merlo
Kerner - In the region of Alto Adige, where shimmering white wines made from such varietals as Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon (Blanc) and Gewürztraminer are immensely famous, Kerner is something of an afterthought. Yet there are numerous excellent examples made from this grape; medium-bodied with typical aromas of white peach, grapefruit, citrus fruit and white flowers, Kerner is high in acidity, and there is often a distinct minerality in the finish. While most examples are straightforward and meant to be consumed with three to five years of the vintage date, the finest offerings, such as the Praepositus from Abbazia di Novacella, are often at their best after a decade. Leading producers: Abbazia di Novacella, Cantina Valle Isarco, Kofererhof, Manni Nossing, Pacherhof
Pecorino - While most people associate Pecorino with cheese made from sheep’s milk, it is also one of the most important white varietals in the regions of Abruzzo and Marche in central eastern Italy. Over the past half-dozen years, Pecorino has become much more well-known thanks to numerous print articles, as well as efforts by many sommeliers to focus on the distinctive character of this wine, yet it remains largely unappreciated.
Wines made from the Pecorino grape typically feature exotic aromas of orange blossom, acacia, honeysuckle and tropical fruit; there is very good, but not high acidity, along with a note of minerality in the finish. While many examples are treated only in steel or cement tanks, so as to preserve the lovely perfumes, some producers do give their wines a bit of oak treatment, while recently, producers such as Francesco Cirelli, Ciavolich and Masciarelli ferment and/or age their examples of Pecorino in amphora, giving the wines notable texture and greater complexity. Leading producers: (Abruzzo) Francesco Cirelli, Ciavolich, Tommaso Masciantonio, Masciarelli, Pantaleone, Villa Medori (Marche) Tenuta Cocci Grifoni, Giacomo Centanni, Clara Marcelli, Tenuta Santori, Tenuta Spinelli, Umani Ronchi
Petite Arvine - Grown in the far northwestern region of Valle d’Aosta, Petite Arvine is the source for what is arguably this region’s greatest white wine. The grape has naturally high acidity, with aromas of grapefruit, lemon essence, flowers such as magnolia and yellow poppy, and sometimes even a hint of cream. Winemaking ranges from steel only to some oak aging; the wines tend to be medium-full, and the top examples offer excellent structure and are somewhat reminiscent of a top white Burgundy; the wines age extremely well, as many examples are in excellent shape after a decade. Leading producers: Anselmet, Grosjean, Les Cretes, Lo Triolet, Ottin
Reds
Freisa - Grown in Piemonte, Freisa is a bit of a chameleon variety, as there are several styles of wine made from the grape, including dry red, a slightly sparking version (frizzante) or a rosato. It can be a supple dry wine or a delicious lightly sweet wine; the common threads are its high acidity and moderate tannins. Enjoy most examples between three and five years of age, although a few offerings such as the Vigna Villa della Regina from Balbiano and the “Toetto” from Giuseppe Mascarello display more weight on the palate, and drink well from seven to ten years. Leading producers: Accornero, Balbiano, Burlotto, Cavallotto, Bartolo Mascarello, Giuseppe Mascarello
Piedirosso - Meaning “red feet” in Italian, Piedirosso was supposedly given this name as the vine has red branches and resembles a bird’s foot. The grape is grown in several territories in Campania, with very different results. In inland Irpinia, Piedirosso is often a minor grape, blended in small percentages in Taurasi, the region’s most iconic red wine. However, in areas closer to Napoli and the sea, Piedirosso takes on a more important role, ranging from light and supple when used for Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio rosso, to more medium-full, as with the wines from Campi Flegrei, just north of Napoli. These are well-structured examples of Piedirosso that prominently display seductive red spice notes; Agnanum and Cantine Astroni are two of the best local producers. One example from nearby Pompeii made by Bosco de’ Medici is as fruit-driven (notes of raspberry and cranberry) and a charming as you can find with this varietal. There are also excellent examples from the Amalfi Coast and Sorrentino Peninsula where the grape is known as Per e Palummo or Pér ‘e Palumm; some reds here are blended with this grape (the Marisa Cuomo Furore Rosso Riserva is 50% Piedirosso, paired with 50% Aglianico) while there are a few monovarietal examples as well. Leading producers: Agnanum, Bosco de’ Medici, Cantine Astroni, Contrada Salandra, La Sibilla, Marisa Cuomo
Pugnitello - Meaning “little fist” because of the vines’ small, tight bunches, Pugnitello is an ancient variety that has enjoyed a bit of a renaissance in Tuscany - especially in the Chianti Classico area - over the past two decades. San Felice, located in Castelnuovo Berardenga, produces a monovarietal Pugnitello, while Rocca di Montegrossi, situated in Gaiole in Chianti, blends about five percent of Pugnitello in their Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “San Marcellino” to bolster the tannins and give the wine more density. The color of Pugnitello is deep purple and there are ripe black cherry and blackberry notes, with additional notes of clove and tobacco. As there are only a few producers working with Pugnitello, it is difficult to make too many claims, but the San Felice version has been excellent, a wine that demands at least a decade of cellaring. Leading producers: Podere Il Castellacio, Mannucci Droandi, Rocca di Montegrossi, San Felice, San Ferdinando
Source:
https://www.forbes.com/sites/tomhyland/2023/02/27/appreciating-some-of-italys-lesser-known-varietals-and-grapes/?sh=6a951f9f445e
